Taste & style. Cecil Beaton, working class elitists & middle class mediocrity. Written by Mike Rees.
I look forward to Charlie’s regular email missives. One thing caught my eye recently and prompted me to respond. The upcoming Cecil Beaton event and Charlie’s subsequent musings on taste and what he termed ‘absolute completists’(the Colin McInnes reference was noted).
So, absolute completists. For me they emerged out of what I would term 'working class elitism' - a term that seems to have died along with the late 20th century subcultures that spawned it and the 21st century rusting up of what is now called ‘social mobility’.
So, what is the link between working class elitism and Beaton?
I once witnessed an exchange between my Great Uncle and Aunt, both now elderly and originally from Shepherd’s Bush.
Great Aunt: ‘You were a Teddy Boy Dick’.
Great Uncle: ‘No, I bleedin’ wasn’t. It was never about knuckle dusters, Bill Haley or all that rubbish. It was about the schmutter, it was about the cut, it was about your hair, it was about standing out.’
At a recent family wedding Great Uncle Dick, by now in his late 80s, still had on the best suit. Beautifully cut, nothing out of place.
I was reminded of this while reading a recent revised history of the Teddy Boy movement. Strangely, we find Cecil Beaton felt a kinship with the post war Edwardians.
‘I like these Edwardian clothes,’ pointing to his own outfit.’ The Edwardian gangs and myself have our clothes in common. And these peacocks are only trying to do what you and I would like to do - make a creative splash. ‘ ( Foyles Bookshop Event. Date not determined)
So - working class elitists, style and absolute completists.
For me style is a combination of shaping cultural influences. Those I know who I would consider to be the most stylish are well mannered, kind, good listeners, well read, well travelled, observant, not egotistical but self confident. These qualities are not used as currency but they are always present. These qualities inform their choices.
When it comes to clothes those I know who I would describe as absolute completists divide up into two broad groups.
The first group are perhaps inclined to what we now term as ‘vintage wear’ but this term is a wholly inadequate descriptor for those for whom it is a lifetime dedication. They devote themselves to tracking down what happens to well made clothes often discarded in a wealthy throw away society. This might be flea markets, TV and cinema wardrobe departments, house clearances, a friend of a friend- it’s a long list. Finding that elusive, beautifully cut, hardly worn cashmere coat for a pittance is the gold at the end of the rainbow. A well trained eye will also be able to spot great art, furniture, ceramics, books. The homes of such people are a delight to visit. Never ostentatious, always refined. I have never once overheard any of these folk use the words 'style' or 'fashion' to describe how they go about life. These people get up early and they put in the time and effort.
The second group would never buy anything other than new clothes. The thought of second hand clothes they would find disturbing. They tend to go with 'deep sea' trends rather than fashion. They will always be willing to pay eye watering sums for clothes but always care for them well over many years. The notion of declaring a so-called ‘designer’ label is an anathema, beneath contempt and a sure sign of poor taste. They will occasionally admit to having too many clothes now but this is a lifetime habit. Their homes and gardens tend to be meticulous and uncluttered but their wardrobes remain a secret world. They would readily subscribe to the word 'style' to describe how they go about their lives.
What do these groups have in common? Their clothes always fit. They don’t carry excess weight. They have a knack of matching clothes well. Shoes are important. Some had mothers who were in the rag trade or had seamstresses in the family. They love dogs, have interesting things to say and have done interesting things. They have a working class elitist’s contempt for middle class mediocrity and would in no circumstances wish to encourage the view that improved circumstances and style and taste in any shape or form makes them middle class.
A few contentious examples of middle class mediocrity which may spark lively debate
Radio 2, Garden Centres, any form of camping, Skechers Trainers, anything by Coldplay, Glastonbury, Classic FM, Wimpey houses, Andrew Lloyd Webber, self help books, IKEA, David Lloyd Sports Clubs, Bakeoff, barbecues, the SUV.
The 1960s produced working class elitist icons in droves. Some thrived by restating their working class identity - the late Terence Stamp, Michael Caine (as Harry Palmer), Twiggy, Ray Davies - but many didn’t adapt - I’m thinking of George Best.
There has been no counter cultural youth movement since the rave scene in the late 80s. For me this is a disaster. I’m not sure we produce such creatures any longer. Perhaps the predominant culture that demonises the working class and elevates middle class mediocrity squeezes them out. Maybe we need them more than ever.
Let’s hope the Beaton event gets people thinking and talking. So let’s go see it.
Mike Rees
Senior Associate
The Innovation Unit
Suggested Further Reading
Mod; A very British Style - Richard Weight
Punk . Stephen Colgrave and Chris Sullivan
Underdogs - Joel Budd
Teddy Boys - Max Decharne
1966 - Jon Savage
Raving upon Thames; The Untold Story of 60s London - Andrew Humphries
3 shades of Blue - Miles, Coltrane and Bill Evans and the lost empire of cool - James Kaplan
Roots, Radicals and Rockers; How Skiffle changed the world - Billy Bragg